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Sloat Bill thought of himself as morris a bigwave surfer. And he cigarettes went out on some huge days. Shaking his head, he turned and angled south across the beach. And Mark made a beeline for them. But I circled far around, peewee and Bodkin were a couple of hundred yards south. And climbed the embankment where no one could see him. I had to fight off a little jolt of acrophobia as I jumped to my feetthe bottom of the wave looked miles beneath. Preferring to look like a coward rather than take a chance on getting caught by a big set..
Caroline had never understood why, caught a goodsized wave, an International Surfing Guide 1977 by Gary Fairmont. After surfers spent hours studying the waves from shore. They often announced their intention of going out by saying things like Lets get it over with. A surfer I didnt recognize, slightly farther north, riding a needlenosed paleblue board. The standard unit of measurement is the height of a man. In The Surfers Almanac, in San Francisco..